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Pomodoro
San Marzano
(San Marzano Tomato)
This is the 'plum tomato par excellence" and one
of the main originators of the success of the
Mediterranean diet. It is talked about all over
the world; it is more and more sought after by
the United States and Japanese markets and even
North European countries have already welcomed
it with open arms. It is the San Marzano tomato,
one of the jewels in Campania's crown and of the
whole tomato section in general. The story goes
that the first seed of the San Marzano tomato
came to Campania in 1770, as a gift from the
Kingdom of Peru to the Kingdom of Naples, and
that it was planted in the area that corresponds
to the present commune of San Marzano.
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This illustrious tomato found its ideal growing
area in the fertile volcanic land and in the
Mediterranean climate of the Sarnese-Nocerino
countryside, a vast plain in the province of
Salerno. Just over twenty years ago anything up
to millions of quintals were harvested, which
was why it came to be known as the "red gold" of
Campania. Then in the eighties the San Marzano
was struck by a series of problems, particularly
to do with plant health, which led to a crisis:
the cultivated surface area and production were
drastically reduced, until they almost
completely disappeared. For some years, however,
the San Marzano tomato has returned to redden
the land of its traditional area, which, besides
the Sarnese-Nocerino countryside (the most
important production area), includes the
Acerrano-Nolano area, in the province of Naples.
A happy return, strongly favoured by new
varietal selection and genetic improvement
undertaken by the region of Campania - whose
merit must be recognised for their conclusive
contribution to the rescue in extremis of the "king
of plum tomatoes" - and today entrusted to the
Consortium for the exploitation and protection
of the San Marzano. This is how this glorious
tomato was protected, until obtaining the DOP (Protected
Denomination of Origin) label in 1996 from the
European Union for the processed product. So
what are the organoleptic, physical and chemical
qualities that have made the San Marzano famous
and unmistakable, both fresh and tinned? It has
a bittersweet taste; the fruit have the
characteristic elongated "plum" shape, firm
flesh and a low number of seeds. The skin is an
intense bright red colour and peels off easily.
It is fragrant and fleshy, rich in flavour (which
enhances traditional dishes of Italian cuisine)
and also in nutrients. The harvest of the San
Marzano usually begins in August and continues
until the end of September and sometimes later.
It is an extremely delicate crop and
mechanisation cannot be used. The need for
labour for the staking for vertical training and
for the graduated harvest (the true San Marzano
is harvested seven, eight or even more times,
only when completely ripe) are two elements that
lead to a considerable increase in production
costs, fortunately, as the recent increase in
the amount of surface area used for cultivation
and the amount of produce processed bear witness,
as well as the interest of operators and
consumers, the San Marzano tomato is living a
second shining youth. It is sustained by the
image that the magnificent plum tomato has
managed to maintain intact through the years, so
that it can function as a tow that it drags
along other "Made in Italy" products from
Campania.
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