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Pomodorino
del Piennolo
(Cherry Tomato)
It is well known that the tomato came from
America, but now it has found its ideal habitat
in the Neapolitan area, where it continues to
prosper and evolve towards a higher quality of
domesticated species. Tomato farming has become
a veritable art form and the traditionality of
this production has been documented since the
eighteenth century by numerous bibliographical
sources as well as the habit of reproducing
cherry tomatoes among the vegetables of the
nativity scene. The Neapolitans are said to have
introduced the use of the tomato into Italian
cuisine and, through the preserving industry, to
have spread it all over the world. |
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One of the most valued and characteristic local
varieties is to be found in the area of the
Vesuvius national park: it is the renowned
Vesuvius preserving cherry tomato, locally known
as "del Piennolo" (or "del Pendolo" - pendulum).
On the slopes of Vesuvius, cultivated on small
plots of land between 150 and 450 metres above
sea level, without irrigation, the Vesuvius
cherry tomato receives maximum benefits from the
volcanic soil and generous sun. Even its "fiery"
colour is a gift from the volcano and it is said
that the roots of the tomatoes feed on the lava
of Vesuvius. The rest is done by the loving care
of the farmers who maintain traditional
techniques, involving the aid of supports with
wooden stakes and wire, to prevent the tomatoes
from touching the ground so that they receive
the sun's rays evenly and get an all-round
colour. The fruit weigh little more than 20
grams, are rounded but slightly plum-shaped,
with a peculiar little point at the lower end
and some depressions at the other extremity. The
skin is thick and the flesh is firm with a
delicious and unmistakably bittersweet flavour
due to the concentration of sugars and mineral
salts. The typical preservation of these cherry
tomatoes is in "piennoli": the whole hunches,
called "schiocche", are harvested between July
and August before they are completely ripe, then
put on a hemp string and tied in a ring, thus
making a single large bunch weighing several
kilograms that is hung in dry, ventilated places.
This system favours slow ripening and makes it
possible to have the "fresh red gold" until the
spring following the year of cultivation. The
long natural preservation is due to the fact
that the plants are grown without irrigation and
the thick skin, which limits dehydration. The
single cherry tomatoes can be picked from the "piennolo"
and used in many typical Neapolitan dishes:
adding a finishing touch to pizzas, bruschetta,
spaghetti, sauces, rich fish dishes and a
thousand other recipes. Families in the Vesuvius
area used to prepare the classic "bottled
tomatoes" after sieving them or putting them in
containers in "filleted" strips ("pacchetelle").
The traditional farming methods on often
inaccessible plots of land, together with the
special processing after the harvest, require a
large availability of labour. This increases
production costs that are already high due to
low yields ascribable to lack of irrigation.
This explains the gradual reduction of the
cultivated surface area, also due to the lack of
generational changeover when older farmers
retire. One hopes for an inversion of this trend
with the arrival of the DOP (Protected
Denomination of Origin) label. A committee has
been set up to promote the application for this
coveted recognition by the EU. The committee is
made up of young farmers and supported by the
National Park of Vesuvius Board that has shown
its support in many ways in view of an
integrated development of the territory.
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