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Limone
di Sorrento
(Lemon of Sorrento)
According to some, the lemon was brought to
Campania in the first century BC by the Jews,
for whom it had a ritual value. The portrayal of
the lemon in mosaics and paintings that came to
light with the excavations of Pompeii shows
their common use in the Neapolitan area since
ancient times. What is certain is that this
citrus fruit has acclimatised incredibly well to
the land in Campania and has prospered
marvellously, until becoming at one with it. So
much so that it would be impossible to imagine
the Amalfi and Sorrento Coasts without their
charming, beautiful and extremely fragrant lemon
gardens. |
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Without the characteristic terraces full of
flowers or the dramatic contrast between the
blue of the sea, the yellow of the fruit and the
intense green of the foliage, in a blaze of
colour enhanced by the strong dazzling light,
this landscape, which is one of the most
beautiful in the world, would not be quite so
unique. However, it is not just the colours or
the other charming elements that attract many
appreciative tourists, the lemon groves also
offer other important advantages, such as the
protection of the territory: by occupying even
the steepest slopes, which are often on the
verge of being impossible to cultivate, they
help to preserve the soil from hydrogeological
instability. The local people are very attached
to the lemon, to the extent that there is hardly
a family in the area that does not have a small
or large plot of land of lemon trees, acquired
and maintained with hard work and sacrifice. The
first specialised lemon groves on the Sorrento
Peninsula were the work of the Jesuit fathers,
who created an ad hoc farm in 1600 in the
Guarazzano basin, between Sorrento and
Massalubrense. It is here that an ecotype of the
Femminello Ovale variety gradually
differentiated through time to form the present
cultivar defined as the Ovale di Sorrento,
Massese or Massalubrense lemon. It has taken on
characteristics of high quality which earned the
Sorrento Lemon IGP recognition (Protected
Geographical Indication) in November 2000: an
important result for the whole of citrus-farming
in Campania both for the prestige it brought to
the sector and in terms of new commercial
opportunities.
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The lemon is medium-large, elliptical, with an attractive lemon-yellow skin,
very fragrant and with a particularly juicy and acidic flesh. Today it is grown
in all the communes of the Sorrento Peninsula and all over the island of Capri,
both in the province of Naples. It covers a total surface area of 400 hectares
and has an annual production of about 100,000 quintals. It is a tardy fruit, so
that, although it is produced on the tree all year round, the best fruit are
obtained from spring to the end of autumn. Cultivation is typically made up of
terraces incorporated in containment walls. Another technical aspect is the
covering up of the foliage to protect it from the cold and wind (an
indispensable practice during the coldest period of the year because of the
geographical position of the Sorrento Peninsula, which is at the northern limit
of latitude for lemon-growing) and to delay the ripening of the fruit until the
best commercial periods. In the past the well-known "pagliarelle" were used:
straw mats resting on wooden stakes, usually of chestnut wood. Today they have
been replaced by more practical plastic nets, which are more suitable for the
steeper slopes of the area. The Sorrento Lemon already enjoyed a good reputation
during the last century, when it was mainly exported to England. Today a
moderate quantity of lemons is still exported to European markets, mainly German
and English, but most of the produce is reserved for the domestic market; 40% is
destined for fresh consumption and the remaining 60% is used to make the famous
Limoncello liqueur from the Sorrento and Amalfi area. Today there are a huge
number of little shops that make this liqueur by macerating lemon skins in
alcohol, sticking scrupulously to old recipes from the local tradition. Demand
for the Sorrento Lemon is constant, thanks to its highly valued properties and,
consequently, the prices are always decidedly higher than (and sometimes double)
that of ordinary lemons on the market. Equally valued qualifications have
brought prestige and credit to the Amalfi Coast Lemon, also gratified with the
much-deserved IGP recognition in July 2001.
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The presence of lemons on the Amalfi
Coast is documented in several places from the eleventh century onwards. Later
on, the famous Medical School of Salerno played an important role in its success
when it began to spread the medicinal use of this yellow citrus fruit, which was
grown all over the Amalfi Coast. However, it was in the nineteenth century that
the lemon took on great economic and social value/or the whole area, thanks to
the creation of terraced lemon groves in the surrounding hills. At the beginning
of the twentieth century the lemon from Maiori was even quoted on the New York
stock exchange. At that time lemons were sold singly, they were handled by women
who had to cut their nails every morning and had to wear cotton gloves. In that
period more than 900 thousand crates containing 300-360 pieces each were sent
all over the world every year. This splendid lemon is mainly known by the name
of the variety, Sfusato Amalfitano, where the first term refers to the typical
tapered shape. It is medium-large, with a thick, rough, light-yellow skin, an
intense aroma, thanks to its considerable richness in essential oils, and a
pleasant flavour. The flesh is juicy, moderately tart, with a low number of
seeds. It is also one of the richest lemons in ascorbic acid (vitamin C), as
results from recent studies at the Federico II University of Naples. The
production area of the Costa D'Amalfi Lemon includes all the communes on the
Amalfi Coast, in the pro¬vince of Salerno, and occupies a surface area of over
500 hectares, with an annual production of about 120,000 quintals. As well as
commercial success and international renown, the Sfusato Amalfitano also shares
typical elements in common with its 'brother' from Sorrento: late production (from
March to October), terrace cultivation in calcareous stone that characterises
the landscape, the use of straw mats to protect the lemon trees from the
elements and a regular ripening period. Also the Sfusato Amalfitano lemons are
used to make Limoncello, the "traditional liqueur of Costa D'Amalfi Lemons" and
the Consortium for the exploitation of Amalfi Coast Lemons (COVAL) has laid down
rules/or its production.
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