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Castagna
di Montella
(Montella chestnut)
In Montella, in the heart of the Irpinia area,
the chestnut has been around for such a long
time that it is difficult to know exactly when
it arrived. According to various authors, the
chestnut, which is native to Asia Minor, was
introduced to this area anywhere between the
sixth and fifth centuries BC. About a thousand
years later, during the Longobard period (571
AD), the first law was issued to protect
chestnut-growing in situ, as it was already
considered a precious resource. Just think of
the strategic value that "Jove's acorn" (as this
delicacy was called by the Greeks), and
particularly its flour that could last for
several years, could have for besieged cities
and castles. |
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Later, the multiple uses of the chestnut were
extremely important because they provided food
and work to whole generations of rural people in
the Avellino mountains.
Let's return to the present. The Montella
Chestnut is so highly valued as to be the first
and only case in Italy of a fruit or vegetable
obtaining DOC recognition, replaced nine years
later by the IGP label (Protected Geographical
Indication).
Average annual production is 7-8 thousand tonnes,
about 60% of the total harvest for the province
of Avellino. Besides Montella, where two thirds
of the total IGP area are concentrated, the
communes that can boast the label include
Bagnoli Irpino, Cassano Irpmo, Nusco, Volturara
Irpina and part of the commune of Montemarano.
In 2001, 150 registered farms covering an area
of about 540 hectares, produced 1,125 quintals
of certified produce.
Over half goes to the overseas market,
particularly to the USA and Canada, where
chestnuts from Avellino arrived during the last
century in the wake of emigration. The Palummina
cultivar is recognised as the undisputed queen
(90% of produce) of the whole range of varieties.
It has medium-sized, rounded fruit with
aflattish lower side, convex base and aflat top
(it looks like a little dove, from which the
dialectal term "palummina", from the Italian "palomba"
meaning "little dove"). The flesh of the seed is
white and crunchy with a pleasant, sweet taste.
The thin, dark brown pericarp is easy to peel
off.
The preservability, tastiness and fragrance of
the Montella Chestnut makes it ideal for two
uses', fresh (including freezing) and dried,
with or without the shell, whole or ground into
flour. In Irpinia, chestnuts used to be dried
inside houses on the attic floor, to exploit the
smoke and heat from the kitchen below. Today,
half the produce is dried and this is mostly
carried out directly on the farms. The Priest's
Chestnut is the jewel in the crown of Irpinia
chestnut growing and is traditionally eaten at
Christmas. Its delicate smoked aroma contrasts
pleasantly with the slightly sweet flavour of
the fruit.
The fresh chestnuts are arranged in layers on
wooden trellises over fires of chestnut wood
kept burning for a fortnight. Afterwards, they
are roasted in ventilated ovens and rehydrated
by being immersed in water. They are a real
speciality, much appreciated both in Italy and
abroad.
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