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Albicocca
Vesuviana
(Apricot of Vesuvius)
The origin of the apricot is shrouded in
uncertainty. Some say it comes from northern
China, whilst others claim it first appeared in
the Iran-Caucasus area, from where it was
subsequently introduced into Greece and then
Italy. One thing is sure; this drupe has found a
second home in Campania, thanks to the
environmental and climatic conditions which are
particularly favourable to its
development.Traces of the cultivation of
apricots in the region are already present in
the fourth century. However, it is in the
sixteenth century that they are more precise
when Gian Battista Delia Porta, an illustrious
Neapolitan scientist of the time, divided them
into two large groups in his treatise, Suae
Villae Pomarium: |
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bericocche, are the most common, round with
soft, white flesh, of the clingstone variety and
crisomele, of variable size, freestone, much
more highly valued for their taste and colour.
The Neapolitan word "crisommole" derives from
this old term and is still used today to refer
to apricots. Today, Campania supplies about 50
thousand tonnes of produce, on just over 5,000
hectares (the surface area decreased by more
than a quarter between 1989 and 1998 but the
region is still the leader for surface area and
production). The oldest and most traditional
cultivation area of this species is to be found
in the province of Naples, more precisely, in
the territory of Vesuvius. Despite variations
due to fluctuations that are recorded almost
every year for various reasons, this area
accounts for 55-60% of the entire regional
production and just under a fifth of national
production, from 2,200 hectares of apricot
orchards. Part of the harvest goes to direct
consumption and almost exclusively to local
markets, whereas a considerable amount (75-80%)
goes to the processing industry to make fruit
juice, jam and pastes to be used in industry.
This strong presence in the Vesuvius area is
ascribable to the mildness of the climate and
the abundant fertility of the land that, being
of volcanic nature, is rich in minerals,
especially potassium: a fundamental element for
improving the organoleptic character of the
fruit (particularly the flavour and aroma). Such
high quality is documented in many old sources.
For example, the "brief report of Agriculture
and Sheep-breeding in the Kingdom of Naples", by
various authors and dating from the middle of
the nineteenth century, describes the crop as
follows: "after the fig, the apricot is perhaps
the most abundant fruit tree in the Naples area,
especially around Vesuvius, where it grows
better than in other areas: there are several
varieties of the fruit that in our dialect is
called crisommole". Obviously there was already
a wide range of varieties, many of autochthonous
origin, that produced different fruit depending
on the characteristics of the cultivar it
belonged to and underlining the strong link
between species and environment. According to
the regulations for the production of the
Vesuvius IGP Apricot (which should be registered
at the European Union shortly), the Protected
Geographical Indication nominates fruit from
biotypes corresponding to the following
cultivars: Baracca, Boccuccia Liscia, Boccuccia
Spinosa, Ceccona, Fracasso, Monaco Bello,
Palummella, Pellecchiella, Portici, San Castrese
and Vitillo, cultivated using traditional
methods in the 19 communes in the province of
Naples. Some of the common features of the
Vesuvius apricots are the medium-small size,
intensity of fragrance, sweet freestone flesh
and the presence of a reddish colour or
speckling overlying the yellow-orange base of
the smooth skin. Another peculiarity is the fact
that most of them ripen early or medium-early
and the harvest, exclusively by hand, goes from
the middle of June to the end of July.
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